In a nation known to have one of the more atheist populations in Europe, the Czechs hold strong to Christmas traditions. There are many reasons why this statistic may hold water yet there are still many practicing Czech Christians. Somehow the majority of Czechs still find ways (religious and non-religious) to celebrate the season.
Places of worship continue to fill as Christmas Eve approaches. This anticipation brings the countdown of advent. The month-long observance begins with the Sunday of Advent when four candles are lit on the advent wreath that hangs from the ceiling.


Village Christmas trees, a tradition from their German neighbors, are presented to their respective towns in the village square. The first of the major cities to light their tree is in Olomouc, then Brno, and finally Prague.
The Feast of St. Andrew kicks things off with a game of good old fashion divination whereas a girl will cast hot lead and see in what form it takes when it cools. The form should tell her to whom she will marry.
The Feast of St. Barboras precedes St. Nicholas Day in early December and girls will take twigs off a cherry tree and hold on to them until Christmas Eve. If this branch, called a Barborkas, should bloom by Christmas Eve, the girl will find a husband the very next year.....maybe you can sense a "find a husband" theme here in these traditions.
December 5th finds St. Nicholas (mentioned in my previous blog) and his friends, the Angel and the Devil, walking through town. Children are asked to sing a song and pledge that they were good all year before receiving fruit, candy, and maybe a small toy.
December 7th is the Feast of Ambrose. Every year the town's folk of Kutna Hora have a parade of Saints’ Barboras and Ambrose. St. Ambrose rides atop a black horse carrying candy and a broom.Children will scream at him so that he will chase them and thus spill candy on the ground. If the child is caught picking up candy by St. Ambrose, he gives them a small swat with his broom.
Now, this leads us to the creepiest tradition during advent in the Czech Republic and that is the day of Saint Lucy. If you recall, Lucy was a Christian martyr during the Roman era that was executed for refusing to get married. Tradition states that on the Winter Solstice, Lucy walks the earth in a white coat and a wooden mask with a long stork-like nose. She makes a disapproving clicking sound as she approaches households that don’t follow the observance of her feast day. She will bang on your door and ask to “Sip the night away”. This is in reference to the old saying that Saint Lucy will “sip the night away but the day does not grow longer” during the winter solstice.
 -Pete

On the eve of St. Nicholas Day, the Czechs usher in the Christmas season in some wonderful ways. Many will take their children to the town square and have them meet with Mikulas (St. Nicholas) dressed in his white beard and bishop regalia, an Angel, and Cert (the Devil). 
Nope, it is not a Halloween encore but a way for children to be quizzed if they were good or not. Mikulas will ask this tough question to the kids and based on their response, will be either given some sweets for good behavior or a sack of coal or hard potatoes for a "bad year" of mischief. If the fear of hard potatoes does not elicit an attitude adjustment, then maybe the devil threatening to put you in his bag and take you to hell will do the trick;-)
Mikulas will most likely ask the good children to sing him a song or recite a poem of their choice, such as Silent Night.

Tichá noc, svatá noc.
V spánku svém dýchá zem,
půlnoc odbila, město šlo spát,
zdřímli dávno i pastýři stád.......

You will most likely see several of these trios (Mikulas, Angel, and Cert) on the Old Town Square in Prague. Once your kids are done with this ritual, you can grab some mulled wine and browse through the Christmas shopping market. Once home, the kids will find the final surprise....a bountiful collection of fruits, nuts, and sweets on the table. Just a little something from good old St. Nicholas:-)

Throughout the month of December, I will be posting many other Czech Christmas traditions as well as a special Czech Christmas edition of the Bohemican Podcast......stay tuned!!! 

One of Europe's most decisive victories was commemorated this weekend near the battlefield of Austerlitz in the Czech region of Moravia. When I arrived at the Slavkov Chateau I was greeted with sounds of cannon fire, muskets, and bugles. It was an odd mix of a wine tasting, craft fair, and a Napoleonic battle that mingled sights and sounds in a way I was not used to when witnessing a battle re-enactment. To make things a little more off, this was the "summer" version of the battle that originally took place in early December of 1805. This occasion was more for the commemoration of Napoleon's birthday but who am I to quibble with such things. The re-enactors were spot-on with their uniforms, pyrotechnics, and horsemanship. The calvary battle on Saturday was exciting and loud. I believe I got a taste of the scope of battle that was Napoleon's most complete victory known at the Battle of the Three Emperors.... except for it not being a snow covered field in December:-)

The museum in the Chateau was impressive as well. A mixture of hands-on education and several digital and interactive video presentations helped to add to the experience of the day's events. However, I felt the need to see the Peace Memorial in the town of Prace to get a complete feel for the battle. The memorial looms over one of the highest points of this large battlefield and it does inspire reflection. It commemorates the loss of life on all sides of this engagement. In all, this was well worth the drive across the Republic. Who knows, maybe I can make the Austerlitz winter re-enactment in December to get the real feel of this historic event. 


-Pete

Tucked away off a small alley in Old Town Prague, is a famous portal to the unknown. This doorway leads to the courtyard and underground tunnels of the House of the Two Bears. In the 15th century, this alleyway was a den of theft, prostitution, and all around bad news. When the authorities had enough of reported trouble from this area, they would do a "surprise sweep" of the alley that sent people running for cover. Why? 
Well, the punishment was tough. Cutting off of one's hand, ears, nose, et cetera or torture in the gallows were waiting for those caught....all depending upon the crime committed. To escape this fate, many ran through this doorway and down into the unknown of underground Prague. Deadly booby traps, dark mazes with seemingly never ending passages, and unknown wells that would lead you to a falling death were all possibilities in this "safe haven". Many met their deaths here and were never found again. 
I still get the "creeps" when I go past this alley today. 
It is hard to believe that this dark history remains just steps away from one of the busiest tourist areas in the city. There are many places like this in Prague. You just need to go exploring down these hidden alleyways where history comes alive. (Please excuse the pun) :-)
-Pete

(Jan. 26) President-Elect Milos Zeman won the first ever citizen popular vote in the nation's post Velvet revolution history.
Zeman recorded a nearly 58 percent total of the second-round voting over rival Karel Schwarzenberg with 45%.
Zeman, the former Prime Minister, brings with him an anti-austerity, leftist agenda.  Zeman, who describes himself as a "Euro-Federalist", will take the oath of office on March 8, 2013.  The Czech presidency is largely a ceremonial role, with powers focused on the appointing of the Prime Minister and high judges.
-Pete